Monday, December 28, 2009

Christmas in Korea

Christmas in Korea was pretty alright for the ole boy. I had to work Christmas eve which was a joke. The kids were all depressed because EVERY OTHER SCHOOL HAD OFF. But seeing as how we have the reputation for being the most intensive English academy in the province, it comes as no surprise that the little chopstix have English rammed down their throat on the eve of the largest capitalistic holiday in the history of the world.

Maybe I felt bad for the kids, or maybe twas the memories of my 25 Wisconsin Christmas' filled with brandy infused Tom and Jerry's and slippery road conditions, but my little babies didn't do shit that day. A couple of word games and some half-hearted discussions about holiday plans.

There was one little detail that made this Christmas stand out- I played santa.

The conversation went a little something like this:

"Ky-yo, Happy birthday! Here some soap." My boss then gives me a birthday present of soap. "I have a huge favor for you. Do you want to be santa on Thursday? Well you have to be. Thank you so much!"

"In that case Of Course!"

I forgot the extent to which kids go crazy for the jolly fella in a red suit. When i emerged from one of the classrooms dressed in a chintzy Korean Santa suit i was quickly reminded. You'd think these kids won the lottery or something. I am talking about complete pandemonium. Screaming, laughing, kids were running over others just to touch me. I felt cool

After 5 minutes of me feeling like celebrity worthy of my own paparazzi following, i needed body guards so I ducked into one of the offices. The chopstix were not going to go to class unless this jolly, paste-eater-magnet disappeared.

Class by class the students came to santa for a gift. I think playing Santa with a language barrier takes all the fun out of it... I tried to have a brief silly conversation with the little buggers but its like we werent speakign the same language.

"Were you a good boy or a bad boy this year?"

{I receive a blank stare at my hideous fake beard, then at the present in my hand}

I repeat myself but this time add a thumbs up and a thumbs down.

{nothing}

Some of classes sung Christmas Carols. A few of them were damn cute with little choreographed dances and mispronunciations. Only a few rugrats tried to yank off my beard. It was a good time. I enjoyed making the kids day.



Here are some pics!

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Eastern Medicine

I have the body pains of a man twice my age. The scoliolioliosis has been too much of a problem here in THE R.O.K until last Wednesday.

I got a GYM membership at A TOP Fitness Center a couple months ago. I am kinda like a celebrity around the gym. I'm the only white dude there. I walk in and the whole staff greets me and tells me I am fashionable, handsome, and strong (qualities I don't possess, but their English is limited to greetings and compliments.) They also try using their broken English with me as I undress. They like the tattoo ;)

I had my own free personal trainer for a few weeks. At first, it was alright having someone give me directions in gibberish and mime correct form. I swear the permed meat head only knew the words "strong" and "power". I got a little tired of him spotting me in the gym and assuming that I always want someone to use their entire body weight as resistance while yelling "POWAHH" in my face.

ANYWAY.

Back to me being an old dude- I dont work out with the goal of eventually looking like Brad Pit in Fight Club. I do exercises that build strength in my back and legs, both of which are likely to fall apart before I hit 40. Sexy I know.

So I was doing a little back exercise with some free weights and I felt something pull or tear I dunno. It hurt. I froze. I freaked out and hobbled out of the gym and went home to lay down. I busted out THE ANSWER- the back massage tool ;). It really didnt help. I took some pain pills and shuffled to work.

I was depressed with the prospect of eventually living a life with chronic back pain. What if i really messed my back up? What the hell should I do? DO i tell my overly concerned and stressed out boss and have her freak out and rush me to the hospital? Do i wait it out to see if it gets better? Do I seek treatment on my own? If i do that how in the hell would i navigate the language barrier? I numbed myself with worry and thus decided to wait it out.

People at work could tell something was up- i was walking around like I had a giant stick in my ass. I told a Hawaiian guy at work about the incident, mistake. Soon a rumor started and everyone was asking me about it. Sure enough the boss found out and asked me what is going on. I told her I'd be fine I've been through this back pain stuff before. She recommended a massage at a Jim Jil Bong, a nude Korean bath hall.

Ive been to Jim Jil Bongs before. They are a cheap place to crash if you need a place to sleep. You get to sit in a huge bath hall filled with naked Koreans, I dont stick out at all! There are different saunas- hot and cold. They have marble slabs for you to sleep on in the buff. Once you are done with that you can put on some scrubs they give you and go sleep in a huge open room with 100-200 folks passed out all over- just like a middle school lock-in. Its quite the experience.

So i went to one of the bigger Jim Jil Bongs in my city and I got an hr long full body massage from a dude for 40 bucks. It was minimally difficult telling him that the pain is under my right shoulder blade. A couple Yogio's (here) and Nay's (yes) did the trick.

The next day i got to work and one of the teachers asked if I ever heard about acupuncture.

"Ive always wanted to try acupuncture"
"Rearry?" She got up and left.

I assumed she left her desk to go spread the news that whitey wants to get stuck with needles.

Not too long after, a different co-teacher of mine told me to follow her into one of the classrooms. The classroom we went to had a student and another teacher in it, so I assumed that I would prolly be translating something or some menial task. Just like every situation Ive found myself in over here, I didn't find out the important details until I'm knee deep in awkward.

Little did I know I was about to be stabbed with needles in front of a live audience!

I tend to just let everyday awkward situations like this transpire. I dunno. I dont have the heart to tell people things like, "I'd prefer to experiment with this (perhaps) painful form of eastern medicine in a controlled environment, out of sight from curious onlookers anxious to see my reaction."

Using surprisingly comforting words in semi-broken English, my new acupuncturist told me to relax; twas no easy task seeing that there are 2 other Koreans in the room whispering to each other in their native tongue about how excited they were to see me squirm.

I tried to sit down on a desk to relax, but was ordered to stand in the middle of an aisle of desks. Very relaxing- especially with the 2 koreans laughing at me.

Not knowing what hell I was doing I gave this foreign woman my hand. She rubbed my thumb a little bit and told me to breath strong. I panted kinda like a dog. I screwed up. Yet another message lost in translation. She meant to take a deep breath. My bad.

She then stabbed me between my wrist and first thumb knuckle. It didnt really hurt. It only felt like i was stabbed with a 2 inch needle in my left thumb bone. I wonder what the hell this woman is doing- My back hurts why is she stabbing my thumb bone?

She squeezes past me int he clustered room and maneuvers toward my back. "Here we go." I thought. "She's making her way to the focal point of my pain."

Nope.

"Lift your pants"

"Um what?" I asked her with 2 needles deep into my handbone.

"I need to see youl reg."

So I rolled up my right pant leg with 2 needles in my hand while standing in a tiny classroom with 3 amused Korean females. As if that wasn't weird enough, the lady bends down and slices my knee-pit with what i can only imagine is a tool designed for cutting people's knee-pits.

"Ohh no" my acupuncturist and the little girl say in unison followed by some korean words i dont know.

"bad blood"

"oil" said the little girl

apparently my blood was dark red, meaning that i wont get better. I dunno

So then I was instructed to stand there for 30 minutes with my pant leg rolled up, knee-pit bleeding, with needles in my bone, breathing "strong" and trying to relax as students walked in and out of the classroom wondering what their large American English teacher is doing.

Amazingly, the pain was gone after a day or two.

Twas, just another average day in Korea...

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Three month anniversary part II

So last thursday i went out for Korean Sushi- Saengseon hoe. Ive had it before. Its pretty ok. You chopstick a slice of flavorless raw fish, dip it in a spicy ass sauce, and toss it in the gullet. What is the only thing that can make eating raw fish better? Flavorless rice liquor, SOJU. Soju is the cheapest drunk on the entire planet. 375 ml for $1.50. It is cheaper than soda. They even sell it in juice boxes
here

ANYWAY

There were probably 25 of us who went out to dinner that night. 25 people sitting on the floor eating raw fish- kyle in the middle commanding a tremendous amount of space as usual. I cant sit on the floor comfortably. I always try to snag a wall spot so i have something to lean on. If i cant secure the coveted wall spot, I face an evening of stares and questioning, "Kyle are you uncomfortable?" "No don't worry about it, my legs go numb after 3 minutes ;)"

I knew ahead of time that at these events i should try my hardest to sit next to 3 specific dudes from work. They are rumored to be the big drinkers and supposedly have the most fun. I snagged the precious spot next to Mr Kim(the muscle of the rinky dink operation I've found myself in) , Chase (the handsome fella who woos old ladies into sending their kids to our school) and Brian (the depressed ex-bachelor head-teacher) all of which are my Korean elders. Between the 3 of them, i knew i would be water boarded with soju, and welcomed the challenge.

After about 7 shots and some slippery fishies, the first food that led to 2 days of hugging the toilet was presented- fresh squirming octopus. When i say squirming octopus i dont mean "hey it looks like it's moving." I mean "holy shit that is a plate of live octopus." If you could chase one of the tentacles down with your chopsticks before it squirmed off the plate, and you were able to pick it up and pry it from the plate, the tentacles stick to your mouth. No joke. Its the little guy's last effort to avoid being eaten. In the case that the slimy fella stick to your cheek as you try to eat 'em you have to take a shot of soju to pry the little bugger from the inside of your mouth. The Koreans couldn't believe I ate the live octopus. "I came to the country to become a Korean." They gasped and laughed.

More soju.

The next dish that led to my demise was presented: Bundaegi- roasted silk worm pupae. Pics here Yum Yum. Not really. Imagine the fruit snack *Gushers having a salty cardboard flavored shell with a gooey center that tastes like rotten dirt. That is silk worm pupae. The Koreans know that eating bugs, or most specifically an insect undergoing metamorphosis in a cocoon, is disgusting. Many Koreans find the smell to be repulsive. I am no exception. But like I said I came to the peninsula to become a real asain- so bring on the pupae.

To prove I was Korean enough i downed like seven of those bad boys. yum...

The Koreans cheered. More soju.

My final fear factor challenge was fish head soup. I ate fish head meat, eye balls, and fish brains. The bones in fish heads are surprisingly sharp! ouch! Mr Kim, the muscle of our operation, had a fishy bone yard the size of a football in front of him. He must've eaten 7 fish heads. This man never ceases to amaze me. It was too much work for the meat :( I had patience to only eat one, so we reverted back to more soju.

After some more cheers and a few "wow look at the white man go" we abruptly left because the eldest person wanted to leave. He paid. Thank gawd. I wouldn't want to monetize the amount of disgusting i put in my mouth.

The next day I could tell I had been drinking the night before. I was a little tired. I didnt feel like i spent the previous night on an episode of fear factor eating bug, brains, and squirming octopus. The 3 wise men at my school were not feeling very Olympic the next day. They were all had stomachaches. I felt like I had conquered a beast and was proud of my Iron American Stomach.

Friday went fine. I met some coworkers out for a few drinks after work and a new bar in town. The wait staff is all new and has no idea what they are doing. I asked for a Bailys and Jameson and the girl busted out a bottle of 12 year aged Jameson. I expected to take a huge hit in the wallet. She charged me 6000 won. 6 dollars for the drink. I couldn't believe it. Anything imported to this country is taxed an insane amount. The bottle of 12 yr old Jameson would probably be 120-150$ anywhere in the country. She charged 3 dollars for a shot. Needless to say I took advantage of her stupidity.

After a few games of pool I came home because i had a bit of a stomach ache. I called my mother and said hi then took some Rolaids and went to sleep.

I woke up Saturday morning in hell. Food poisoning had struck. My body punished me for showing off and trying to be Korean. I dry heaved all day and expelled diarrhea for 2 days. I had a fever. I hurt all over. I couldnt drink water. I couldnt stand up for fear of messing my pants. It was terrible. Worse, I was alone and had no one to complain to. I called a co worker and begged her to bring me some water because you cant drink the tap water in this country. If I had to walk downstairs to the store, which would require me to stand for more than 30 seconds, I would return with shit in my pants. It was horrible.

I had been saving the Movie "Gran Torino" for a time when I was pissed at Korea. Clint Eastwood spends most of the movie being pissed at Asians and making slurs. That Saturday night Clint and I were on the same page.

Sunday was better. My body still hated me, but we were starting to get along a little better. Anything was an improvement from Saturday. Im glad i survived to talk about it. I now know what hell feels like.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Three month aniversary part 1

Last Thursday at school was like any other Thursday. I "taught" low level middle school students- which is to say I pretty much talk at blank stares, write words on the board, and make farm animal noises to break the awkward dead silence. I also teach a intermediate- high intermediate elementary class. This class is a wild card. They always have a lot of energy. This can either be fun or a headache.

For example they have this book they hate called Skill Bags. They've renamed it Kill Bags. To be fair some of the topics are just plain terrible. We've done topics like elevators and the history of paper. Riveting topics right?

The kids never want to do the book work. To be honest some days I just dont feel like talking about the history of paper to a bunch of chopsticks on a perpetual sugar high. But because their parents paid for the book I have to go over it in class.

Every Tuesday and Thursday at about 8:45 a variation of this interaction can be witnessed:


"Hey Lee Put your cell phone away and turn off that terrible music. Jack why are you standing by the window? Jenny get off the desk. Take out your Kill Bags"

"Teachahhh Play game......" One will say in a long sad complaint.

"Maybe if we... LEE, DAMN IT SIT DOWN, LEAVE JENNY ALONE AND PUT THAT PHONE AWAY!"

"Teachaaaaahhh PLAY GAME!!!"

Then the kids in unison scream, " KYLE BEST! KYLE BEST! KYLE BEST! KYLE BEST!"

"Hey hey hey now, Let just get through this then we can.."

"KYLE WORST! KYLE WORST! KYLE WORST!" The tide changes.


Everyday this happens.

In this class i have a spoiled rotten little shit who tries to make my life hell. He is the oldest guy in the class. He has peach fuzz that rivals my own. Maybe I hate him for that... I dunno. None the less he's a little shit everyday. This particular Thursday he wouldnt put his cellphone and ipod away. He kept playing with them and distracting the whole class. After a few stern chair kicks and table slaps I was able to intimidate him enough to hand 'em over.

He then swore at me in korean. "She bal" which means something like fuck you. I laughed and pretty much told him i thought he was a spoiled little bitch and i was going to give him detention for being said bitch. He tells me that he wont go to detention. I shrugged it off and continued Kill Bags.

Then I gave the entire class an essay in Lee's honor. "All right class because Lee is a little cocksucker you all have to write an essay. It's a free topic, write anything you want." The chopstix wrote essays like "why i love Kyle" and "why I hate Avalon"

Lee of course wrote the essay "Why I hate Kyle" which I am totally ok with, as long as it is a good essay. He of course wrote 5 sentences, so I tried to get him to explain himself with reasons and details.

"Tell me more about 'Kyle is ugly.' Why is the ugliest thing about Kyle? You say here 'Kyle is a pervert' Why does this make you hate him?" This really pissed him off. His expression of hatred had been turned into an opportunity for me to try to teach him something.

After class when everyone lined up at the door. I told Lee to sit his yellow ass down because he had detention.

Being the bad-ass tough guy he tries to be everyday he says, "Im not going. give me my phone and ipod." I then realized i still had probably 500$ worth of electronics in my possession that belonged to him.

I laughed. "Ha ha ha. NO."

I let everyone leave as Lee paced in the room like a caged animal. "Why?!?!" He screamed and tried to shove passed me. "WHY!!!!!!" HE screamed some Korean at me and tried to shove me and get passed me. Im 8 inches taller and have about 80 pounds on him so I laugh and call him a girl. "Lee you aren't so tough anymore are you?"

I call over some Korean workers at the school and we march him up to detention. It felt good.

I checked on him probably 15 minutes into detention. He had his head down. I went in there to tell him to catch up on all the Homework he has neglected to do. He lifts his head and he is silently balling. I mean puddles on the desk crying. I feel bad. The first thought that goes through my mind is that this kid, like every other little chopstick, probably gets the shit kicked out of him at home.

I try talking to him about what he did. He cried and kicked and said a bunch of shit in Korean. He likely didn't understand anything I was saying. I mean if i was balling and some foreigner is trying to speak their foreign language at me i probably wouldn't be able to translate in a such an extreme state of emotion.

I let him go back in the room and gave him back his things.

I went to talk to his Korean Teacher. Apparently I am 0-2 in copying Korean Text in important situations. I wrote down the wrong kid's name for detention. I wrote my prize student's name down. So she called the good kids parents instead of the rotten kids parents. The good kid probably came home and got the shit kicked out of him because his dumbass American teacher copied the wrong name down.

Again I felt bad.

The day ended after probably making 2 kids cry.

So i wen tot my desk to reflect on my successes and failures of the day. Then the head Korean teacher asked me if i liked raw fish.

"DO I!"

"Gweat Ky Yo come with us then"

Then another Korean teacher gestured to me that we'd be drinking.

"Im in. Lets go." Little did I know that this would ruin my three month anniversary in the R.O.K.

That was my Thursday.

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Sports day

So our school rented a school gymnasium for a Sports Day! The owners, the teachers, the bus drivers everyone made it out for the event. It was mostly Koreans there were only 6 of us foreigners. There were prizes. So I knew i was in for a day excitement.

WE drew for random teams earlier in the week. Knowing that we were going to play volleyball, I talked trash all week. Due to the language barrier my trash talking was limited to "B TEAM NUMBER ONE!"

The night previous, I somehow found myself in a Korean Chicken Parlor then A Kareoke Room until 5 am. I was definitely belting out Scarborough Fair, Avril Lavine, Bon Jovi- everything. Soju makes you do funny things.

The next morning came too soon. We were supposed to meet at the school at 11am then go out to eat. One of my team members woke me up at 10:55. I through on my Packer Zuba Pants and my pink Recreation Champion shirt and scurried to meet them at a restaurant.


Now Koreans eat the same thing morning, day and night. Its normally a combination of meat/protein(spam, pork, tofu) spicy sauce, and fermented veggies. Yum... There is no better anecdote for a hangover like fermented cucumbers and spicy spam.

We all loaded into a bus and took off for the school for MAIN EVENT a bit after noon.

The very first event was a relay race, but this was no run of the mill relay race in a school gymnasium. We had to run across the gym and chug a glass of Korean rice wine can Makali. I will repeat that. We had a chugging competition/ relay race in middle school gymnasium. I cant make this shit up.

We then play volleyball on a HUGE court. The boundaries were the lines of a full size basketball court. We played 8 on 8 or something ridiculous. Naturally i played like a complete ball hog. It was ok because the opposing Korean men did the same. When in Rome!

Imagine the biggest dude in the gym, dressed in Zubba pants and a bright headband, barreling over the Korean toothpicks like a dog chasing a ball. IT WAS AWESOME.

Of course our team won the tournament. Afterwords, the bus drivers beckoned for me to join them in the corner of the gym. They handed me a paper cup of the Makali, said some things in Korean, laughed and we all chugged the weird tasting alcohol. We did this a few times. Only in Korea can I slam liquor with bus drivers in a school gymnasium.

Our team took second place due to some elder bullshit, again. The eldest man in the gym decided to play by his own rules, and every cheered him on. Whatever. Ive gotten used to it. As a prize for second place we all got bars of "Say Angel Berry Soap." I now must show up to work smelling like a teenage girl.

Ta Ta for now!

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Living in Paradise

Hey Kyle, Is living in Korea Paradise?

No.

The luster of living in foreign land has worn off. I am now a man of routines. I sleep everyday til around 1pm. I shower, drink some powdered dry beans and milk and head off to the dog and pony show. "Look parents we have REAL AMERICANS teaching your spoiled rugrats!"

I work for business. I dont work for a school. This makes me not a teacher but an employee. I am not paid to foster a sound teaching environment and transfer knowledge. I am paid to look like a presentable American and do my best not to have students complain to their parents. Parental contentment is the highest priority.

Whatever its all good.

I was told by a coworker, "Once you take this job seriously, you'll drive yourself insane." He was a head teacher.

Oh Korea

Sunday, November 1, 2009

what am i doing

Ok So it is no secret that I don't put BLOG WRITING high on my priority list and rarely make time for it. When I do update the blog I end up writing in huge chunks. Things happen everyday here that blow my mind. For example I saw a really shitty tequila, Pepe Lopez, with a retail price of 30,000 won- 30 dollars. Does this warrant a blog topic? I dunno. Its my first blog. I dont know what I am doing. Either read it or don't.


Treat yourself if you see fit...

I went to a Korean Fortress. Here are some pictures. I wanna start a picasa or flickr account. But for now these will have to:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2210845&id=59502786&l=6f6d516bc7